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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.